Get caught up on day 1-3:
Intro and Day 1
Day 2-3
Day 4- Carrigan Notch Trail to Swiftwater Junction to Shoal Pond Trail, side trip to Thoreau Falls, leaving the Pemigewassett Wilderness, Appalachian Trail to Ethan Pond- 7.8 miles
I woke up with a pep in my step; excited for a mellower day, excited to see Bob and my dad that afternoon, excited for soaking in the Pemi Wilderness.
Days 2- 4 were blue bird days and I was starting to take that for granted. The Pemigewasset River crossing, like the Swift River on Day 2 presented no difficulties, yet drinking water was abundant. So far I was hitting the jackpot water-wise. While most rocks and roots on the Carrigan Notch Trail had dried out since rain on day 1, the Shoal Pond Trail is, as far as I could tell, perpetually soggy and boggy.
The guidebook warns that this trail can make for difficult way finding if overgrown. While there were places were my legs brushed with ferns or my waist with hobble bush, there was evidence of recent trail work clearing some downed trees and on this day, despite the lack of blazes, I did not find it difficult to follow the trail. Many sections of the trail were lined with boardwalks making it very apparent where to step. Other soggy sections were not, so being prepared to step IN the mud is important if you head down this trail- walking around the mud off-trail is harmful to vegetation.
There was a variety of wildflowers along the trail, including a beautiful meadow with irises. There were boggy sections, babbling brook sections, and breezy spruce-fir forest sections. It was a lovely stretch of trail where I predominantly saw evidence of previous animal- not human- visitors. When I crossed paths with two women trail running southbound, I was as surprised to see them as they were to see me- I don’t think this trail gets a lot of use and particularly on a weekday all three of us had expected it to be void of others.
Shoal Pond itself was absolutely stunning, and even though it is just 0.7 miles from the AT, had a remote feel to it. I anticipated that upon popping out on the AT, I would see more hikers, and I was certainly correct. After leaving the Pemigewasset Wilderness, I dropped my pack and headed to Thoreau Falls to take in the view. The view was amazing, but a group of teenagers were spending way too much time at the top of the falls for my comfort, so I left after filtering some water as it just wasn’t relaxing to be there. I headed back to the AT, grabbed my pack and headed to Ethan Pond Shelter. I had lunch upon arrival and had the afternoon to relax, which felt needed after two long days.
I met two 70 year olds who were set out to hike 70 miles to celebrate their birthdays and enjoyed exchanging food ideas and trail suggestions with them. Stacy, the caretaker was very friendly and we chatted for a bit while taking in the view of the pond. A youth group arrived, filling two tent platforms, and by the end of the evening as the AT section and thru hikers arrived, all tent platforms and the shelter were taken.
Bob and my dad hiked up from Rt 302 to spend the night (and carried a dinner and breakfast for the 3 of us!). It was great to see them after my 3 nights of solitude. For dinner we had Polenta with Kale, Mushrooms and Mozzarella topped with crispy onions. I adapted this New York Times recipe, cooking the kale and mushrooms in an oil-free version of the sauce at home before dehydrating. We used instant polenta, and rather than cooking for 3 minutes, added boiling water and let sit in insulated bowls for about 10 minutes. I had the same meal on night 1 and used a single string cheese to pack in the mozzarella. I highly recommend this meal.
It was cooler at night, and easier to sleep, yet I found myself awake around midnight wondering why I couldn’t sleep. Soon, I realized I was hungry, having built a calorie-deficient over the last few days that was now rearing its head. I tip-toed self consciously past other sleeping campers to the bearbox where I downed a midnight snack.
Day 5- Ethan Pond Trail to the Saco River Trail and an afternoon off trail in North Conway- 5.3 miles
Bob, my dad and I had a leisurely morning at camp (BAGELS!) then hiked down the Ethan Pond Trail to route 302. It was raining off and on a little slippery, but not nearly as tricky as coming down Mt. Passaconaway had been. Bob and my dad drove their cars from the parking lot down to the Dry River Trail Head parking lot, allowing me to slack pack as I crossed 302 and traversed the Saco River Trail. I expected a reasonably flat trail by a river but it was fairly technical and not at all in view of the river.
Our plan had been to hike a few miles up the Dry River Trail to a campsite for the night. I knew this would make for a very short hike on the next fay (day 6) and it was forecast to rain all afternoon. We made a game time decision to camp at Dry River Campground (NH State Park), which is a hop and skip from the Dry River Trail head. Thanks to the weather it had vacant sites. I could easily make up for taking the afternoon off on day 6.
After lunch and setting up camp at Dry River, we headed to Ragged Mountain to get me some new socks as mine had some holes. We had an early dinner and drinks at The Moat, then popped into REI just to stay out of the rain for a little longer.
I slept soundly that night, well fed and listening to the pitter-patter of the rain on our tent.
Day 6- Presidential-Dry River Wilderness, Dry River Trail to Davis Path to Isolation Trail, up Mt. Isolation and back to Isolation Trail- 9.4 miles
The Dry River Trail has special warnings at the trail head kiosk about being washed out and difficult to follow; this is echoed in the guidebooks. There were some washed out sections that were rugged and an undermined riverbank within a step of the trail where a misstep would result in a large plummet towards the river. We were glad not to be doing this during heavy rain and felt positive about our decision to hunker down at the campground the day before.
My dad joined us up until the suspension bridge, and Bob hiked with me until I turned onto the Isolation Trail and then he headed back to the car (and Vermont to go to work the next day). I was glad to have his company for this technical stretch and also glad to have cell service higher on the Isolation Trail to text and ensure they both had made it back safely- it IS a technical trail next to a raging river.
Like the Shoal Pond Trail, this was spot I expected to see no one and I once again crossed paths with trail runner once I was on the Isolation Trail and hiking solo. While I’d gotten accustomed to hiking solo over the first few days, it now felt particularly quiet after having company. I’d moved past the sore phase of the trip (days 1-4) and onto the strength phase and felt physically confident cruising up hill with my wide load.
The forecast called for afternoon showers that I mostly dodged and a “chance of thunderstorms overnight”. I camped at site on the Isolation Trail East, near the intersection with the Davis Path. Given the forecast, I paid particular attention to setting my tent in a location with no overhead dead branches and looked to be amidst even-height trees, with no stand-out tall lightening rod. This was probably my favorite campsite of the trip, thanks to the views a few yards away and lack of bugs, but it’s a close call. The site itself isn’t particularly snazzy, but everything around it is. After eating dinner (a second serving of my homemade dehydrated rice noodle tofu stir fry), and doing camp chores, I submitted Mt. Isolation in a slight drizzle then headed back to camp. Like night 3, this was a no-people no-service site of solitude, though I did have enough service to check the weather forecast on the summit of Mt. Isolation.
Keep Reading:
Day 7-9
Day 10-11 The Finale
sixW2s 